A sprint down memory lane--it's paved, so watch out for the skid check PSR!
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Welcome to Mod Monday! One of the best ways to make your force stand apart from the rank and file and attract new players to the table is with creative and unique game pieces. While Battletech and Alpha Strike aren't WYSIWYG (wee-see-wig, "What you see is what you get") like other games, modifications, reposes, and creative construction enhance the gaming experience. In Mod Mondays, we look at cool modifications and tutorials to build dynamic and different models. For this post, I'll walk you through the build of a work in progress C3M Komodo. Need a medium weight 'Mech to coordinate your C3 lance? This Komodo offers a decent punch with some speed and jump--though it sacrifices some staying power.
To model the C3M, I first added two antenna placed over the left torso like the art from both the Battletech CCG and the first edition of TRO: 3055. This could have been enough to show C3. For a more ambitious--yes still simple C3M--mod, I added an antenna dish to the turret from an Owens [IWM 20-690]. I don't remember where the dish came from; too big for both a Crab and the Mobile HQ minis. The Owens turret already appears to have TAG, so no mods needed there. To add it to the right torso, I drilled a hole in the torso for the peg to fit. After a bit of glue, the piece fit just to the right of the antenna. The dish, just to the side of that, made a nice aesthetic balance as it drew the mass of the assembled bit more center. Have your own C3M Komodo to share? Know where that dish came from? Leave your thoughts in the comments below! This year, the members of the Facebook group Oklahoma Battletech hosted a Christmas Exchange. In this, members sent in their names, a wishlist including miniature and faction, and their address in case they couldn't meet to exchange. After that, a central moderator randomly chose who would get whom in a Secrer Santa like mixup.
My assignment said they were a fan of Griffins and Lyrans. I didn't have any spare unseen on hand and couldn't locate any for this project. (I usually hesitate to spend the extra on unseens, especially with the classics coming out, but I somehow always manage to make exceptions for events like this if I can.) I happened to have in my bare metal box a Primitive Griffin. It scales well with the unseen and has a similar aesthetic. You may remember this Primitive Griffin from the (cruel, taunting) write up in its build and painting where you can read more about the process and techniques behind it. The minis I receive from exchanges like these are some of my most prized pieces. As an artist, there is no better way to carefully evaluate someone's work than by looking at it carefully (well, watching them paint it in person is the best way to steal techniques). Looking at the details, the brush strokes, the lines and decals all reveal a bit of a story of how a miniature is assembled, modified, and painted. More importantly, as a member of a community, exchanges like this are excellent opportunities unities to build connections. We often stare down each other over tables and terrain, throwing dice to overcome our opponents. These exchanges, however, can bring us together to build a strong, long lasting gaming group. A sprint down memory lane--it's paved, so watch out for the skid check PSR! The Xanthos is a cool piece--if for no other reason that I managed my way into the fiction as a notable pilot for it! There is something about the change of the seasons that makes me want to paint different units, schemes, and bases. Spring and summer in Oklahoma usually means deserts inspired by the dry red dirt and yellow grasses. Fall turns into darker color pallets like Night Stalkers on undead-like or harvest-style bases. Winter means snow camo, frost covered bases, and Lyrans and Ghost Bears galore! This Xanthos started with an all over white primer and base coat. Like the Thunderbolt from last week, I used layers of lining to give it contrast. While I could have used brown or tan to shade again--and this would have emphasized the camo nature of the piece--I went with blue grey to bring out the feeling of coldness for the snow Effects. For this piece, watered down light grey blue (Ghost Grey) with a size 1 brush. This was followed by a medium grey blue with a size 0 brush. The final round was a dark blue grey (Shadow Grey) with a size 000 brush in only the darkest parts. The camo was a pretty cool trick using an old dry brush with split ends and curled bristles. I wanted a thin, tan outline of each splotch, so I started with that color. With most of the paint wiped off the brush, I stippled it (read "STABBED THE MINIATURE WITH A PAINT BRUSH!") onto the mini. It's important to remember that when painting camo miniatures, if you make it too camo, it will do just that and hide the details. After the initial stippling, I went back and carefully filled each splotch with dark green, making sure to leave the tan outline visible. In the very center of each splotch, I then added medium and light green to add a sense of shading. For the cockpit, I wanted a color that would go well with the other colors in the piece. Since it is white (a neutral color), with blue shading (a cool color, a primary color, and a compliment to orange) and tan/green camo splotches (relatively cool colors with the dominant green, a secondary color, and a compliment to red), and knowing that I wanted to highlight the red in the Highlanders' logo (a warm color, a primary color, and a compliment to green), I chose a golden yellow. With this same logic, I chose the same yellow and red pattern of the MacLeod tartan for the major swatch. The remaining details, metallics, weathering, etc., were done in the same way as most of my work. I did, however, want to keep the number of non-camo elements to a minimum to emphasize the overall pattern.
Do you have a favorite winter camo scheme or your own tricks to paint white? Share them in the comments below! Welcome to Mod Monday! One of the best ways to make your force stand apart from the rank and file and attract new players to the table is with creative and unique game pieces. While Battletech and Alpha Strike aren't WYSIWYG (wee-see-wig, "What you see is what you get") like other games, modifications, reposes, and creative construction enhance the gaming experience. In Mod Mondays, we look at cool modifications and tutorials to build dynamic and different models. For this post, I'll walk you through the build of a work in progress Atlas AS7-CM. Supplies and BitzAtlas [IWM 20-942RE] Fenrir Turrets [IWM BT-391] Banner (optional) [from IWM 20-5095] Armorcast Cinematic Effects (optional) [ACFX002] Razor Saw Green Stuff BuildThis is why record sheets are important! Making this modification requires a minimal bit of effort to make a great miniature a unique model. For the left arm, carefully remove the laser with a razor saw. File down the area to make it flat and even. You may need to also file out the panel line at the wrist. To add the anti-missile system, clean and glue the Fenrir turret on the shoulder. You could mount this on the forearm--the shoulder had a more appealing aesthetic for me. To mount the sashimono (banner), drill a small hole in the back of the model where the mounting peg will fit--about between the lasers. You may need to file a notch in the "bump" on the back so that the pole fits correctly. The hip-mounted piece will need the holes filled with green stuff. After it sets (about 24 hours from the application), trim and file it down smooth with the rest of the piece. To make it especially dramatic, add the Armorcast Cinematic Effects to the muzzle (debates about Gauss Rifle flashes aside). The muzzle flash fits well, but may need some green stuff to fill it in and a good pinning to hold it. Command, Control, and Communication Systems EngagedBefore paint hits this piece, antenna will be installed to make sure it has a look reminiscent of a command vehicle. Even with this detail, building this mod is relatively simple. The tools and skills needed to do this are excellent introductions to build foundations for more complex projects with razor saws and green stuff.
MADE YOUR OWN ATLAS -CM? POST YOUR KIT IN THE COMMENTS BELOW! Welcome to the second installment in the Long Live! series. This series is designed to help players design multi-era lances for use with Battletech and Alpha Strike. Each entry will attempt to build a functional lance with faction-flavor for the Succession Wars, Clan Invasion, FedCom Civil War, and World of Blake Jihad. In some cases, an entry will have substitute options to add variety. If you have your own substitutions or suggestions post them below in the comments! ObjectiveBuild a FWLM lance that can be played across eras, from the Succession Wars through the Jihad. THANKS FOR THE CATCH, JOHN SISK! SHOULD BE CORRECT NOW. Restrictions
MODELSThis edition of Long Live! makes extensive use of the miniatures found in the Battletech Boxed Set, Fire Lance Lance Pack, and Recon Lance Lance Pack, as well as models from Iron Wind Metals. Click the images below to purchase these and other miniatures! (Miniatures supplied unassembled and unpainted.) BackgroundI don't paint "Leaguers" often. Going over my various galleries, I have only painted to this date two FWLM tanks, and a handful of battle armor--being torn apart by a Lyran Griffin. Looking over the units available to the FWLM on the Battletech MUL, it seemed they have a love of long range missiles--I bet it's "Leaguers" who are responsible for lrmageddon. Secretly, I've always wanted to build an LRM-based unit, but that doesn't make me a "Leaguer." This is new territory... Succession Wars |
The Hermes II HER-2S is an acceptable substitute for the Cicada. It is 2" slower, also bringing with it a reduced TMM. With the reduced speed, however, the Hermes II also carries +2A and +0/0/1 damage. These gains come at a cost of +5 PV. This is a unit worth adding if for no other reasong than it will have some great variants in the coming ages to strengthen this formation. Okay, I might be breaking the rules a bit... If you want a more Marik feel, use an Orion ON1-K in place of the Dervish. You'll downgrade the IF to IF1, but gain an all around formidable unit. |
Clan Invasion Through Fed Com Civil War (127 PV without SPA)
Gaining a significant look and feel of a traditional FWLM force, the Apollo APL-2S (or any era-approved variant of the Apollo) replaces the ancient Dervish DV-6M. For what it loses in maneuverability, the Apollo makes up for in hitting power (+1/2/1), armor (+2A), and indirect fire ability (+1 IF). This comes at a PV cost, however, as the Apollo is seven points more expensive than the Dervish. To help overcome the speed difference, this unit could take the Speed Demon SPA (Alpha Strike Companion, p. 52) that will boost its ground sped to 10". This will, however, possibly create some game balance issues if the player applies other SPA to this unit or also takes the Forward Observer SPA with the spotter unit. Remember Rule #1 and use your best discretion to keep the game fun.
There are many variants of both the Apollo and the Trebuchet to choose from. If survivability is a concern, then keep the Trebuchet TBT-5J instead of adding the Trebuchet TBT-7M. The loss of two points of internal structure is a high price to pay for 1/0/1 damage increase. It also gains SNARC a useful special for a missile-based unit. With the fragile nature of the design, however, this may be a special ability used rarely.
This lance upgrades the Cicada to either a Cicada CDA-3F or Cicada CDA-3G. At an increased PV cost, these two modls also gain increased maneuverability with a 16" jump, +0/1/1 damage, and exchange one point of internal structure for two points of armor. If you're group describes your play style as "throw caution to the wind," then the reduced structure is good for you--it just means less chances to take critical damage, right? An added bonus if using expanded rules, the Cicada CDA-3G brings exceptional scouting abilities to the table gained by the probe and recon specials. It definetly takes the role of spotter to another level. To support it in the role of spotter, this model carried over the Forward Observer SPA.
The shining star of this upgraded lance, however, is the Shadow Hawk SHD-5M. This variant build the 6" jump to a full 10" to match the unit's ground speed. The -5M mounts slightly less staying power than the Catapult CPLT-C1 or the Shadow Hawk SHD-2H, with +1A and -2S. This is a negligable change, however, if used at range in its intended role as a missile boat. What's more, the upgraded damage profile of +0/1/1 of the -5M makes medium and long ranges its sweet spot. Though it has an identical damage profile to the Catapult, the increased maneuverability allows this machine to move into and out of foreign positions much more easily than the model it replaced.
This unit still functions as a dedicated Fire Lance.
Some things to consider, however, when choosing between the Wraith and the upgraded Cicadas. Both Cicada models are cheaper and faster than the Wraith and carry the same damage profile. Both Cicada models also have -1 armor and -1 structure compared to the Wraith; their increased TMM, however, should balance this out. They both lack the over heat option of the Wraith, preventing both units from being able to really pour on the damage in tight situations. The Cicada CDA-3G, however, makes up for this with exceptional scouting abilities gained by the probe and recon specials.
Jihad (126 PV-without SPA)
The one I can strongly recommend is adding a Hermes II HER-5Sr. With the addition of ECM, this piece becomes an invaluable tool in combating C3 and C3i networks prevalent in this era of play. What's more, with the role switch to sniper, adding the Hermers I and keeping the Cicada will still allow a player to keep the Fire Lance bonus abilities. The Hermes II, in many variants, is a viable option for the FWL throughout their history.
By replacing the Trebuchet TBT-7M with the Hermes II HER-5Sr, the lance remains eligible to serve as a Fire Lance because of the sniper role it fulfills. Without the IF skill of the Trebuchet, however, the unit does lose the opportunity to serve as a Fire Support Lance. The two units are relatively similar in performance: same TMM on both though the Trebuchet can complicate matters by jumping, creating a TMM of 3. The Hermes II carries one more pip of internal structure, giving it a slight edge in survivability. It does, however, bring less damage potential to the board, -1/0/0 damage, compared to the Trebuchet.
Depending on whether the Cicada or the Hermes II will do the bulk of the spotting work will determine which of the two units will take the Forward Observer SPA.
Long Live the Leaguer!
What's more, because of the style of play and specific models used, this lance can be played virtually out of the box! Print and use the cards from the Battletech MUL and play the Introductory Box Set Dervish as a later-period Apollo! Ned to find a stand-in for the Shaow Hawk? Try using a Dragon. Use whatever creative substitutes come to mind until you can make your way to Iron Wind Metals or your Friendly Local Game Store!
Notes
- I'm still not a Leaguer.
- Need to find units to build your own missile-toting lance? Use the Battletech MUL!
When I work with unseen pieces, floods of nostalgia inundate my creative process. I reference old FASA source books, anime art, and the Battletech CCG-my gateway to Battletech, 'Mechwarrior, and now Alpha Strike. It's pretty easy to tell when I'm painting in a nostalgic mood because of the look. Expect metallic hands, feet, joints, and weapons. Often, the color paler will be a bit more retro, but faded a touch to give it an "old" look.
To enhance the old look, I used a brown based white (blue would have been okay too, since blue and orange are complimentary colors). This piece started with a white base coat. From there, I diluted bleached bone into an ink-like consistency with water and polish and lined the piece with a size 1 brush. From there, did the same with sepia ink and a size 1 or 0 brush. The final lining layer was brown ink and a size 0 or 000 brush. After that, I carefully washed the entire piece in several coats of watered down sepia ink. A bit of white highlighting helped to make it "pop."
This was also a fun piece to experiment with the tiger stripes. Using just orange would have resulted in a flat, uninteresting highlight. After researching rich color photos of tigers and painted tiger stripe patterns and miniatures, I decided on a fade to yellow, with the white being like the underbelly of a tiger. The base of this fade was orange, since yellow is notoriously challenging to paint. The yellow was added a bit at a time and layered. You'll notice, however, different highlights on the orange and the yellow. For the orange, I added bleached bone and for the yellow I added white. The stripes were carefully painted with black and designed to be asymmetrical.
I didn't want to hide all that work with excessive wear and tear. To add a bit of worn paint, I rubbed a pencil lead on the sharp sides of the piece. The ridges on the body and around the left weist are good examples of this.
I really enjoyed working on this piece. Unseens are always fun for the history (and usually easy to repose). The scheme was a great change to try new techniques. Most of all, I enjoyed this because I knew it would end up in the hands of someone who would appreciate it. Being a fellow artist, this drive me to push myself and my painting even further.
For this post, I'll walk you through the build of my Long Shot Stinger that was featured on Battletech Painting and Customs.
Tools & Supplies
Tools (Not pictured)
| Supplies
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Initial Assembly
SAFETY FIRST! Make sure you always use your tools safely!
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Start by cleaning the mold lines and flash from the miniature with an X-Acto and files. This is one detail that I am very meticulous about and so I have several sets of files and sizes of razor blades. This piece was relatively easy to get into all of the recesses, fortunately, so I didn't use many of my special tools.
Do be careful, however, when removing mold lines to not gouge and scrape lines into the piece.
I drilled a small hole in the guide on the cockpit to add a piece of copper wire. Prior to gluing it in, I gave it a slight bent towards the top to resemble the antenna on Vietnam-era military radios. This, I hoped, with the final piece would give it an "in the bush" feel.
To build the extended range laser, I first sawed the muzzle off the barrel very carefully. After that, I drilled a guide hole into both pieces. With the tube cutter, I cut a selection of brass tube to the length I wanted--not too long so as to not fit on the base, but not too short. With the section cut, I passed a paperclip through it to fit into the base of the laser and the muzzle--this was the pin to hold the assembly together. Once fitted, I clipped the clip with wire cutters and used superglue to glue the assembly together.
The scope was built in much the same way: brass rod and paperclip. To give the scope a rail to mount onto the laser, I used a small scrap of plasticard. Finally, to give the appearance of lenses, I added small drops of superglue into the ends until filled.
The base was a relatively simple matter. First, I cleaned the mold line from the base--because all mold lines must go! To get the appropriate inverted cone look I was going for, I used the bottom of the base to trace a rough outline of the hexagonal dimensions.To make sure when trimming I didn't trim away the area the miniature would sit in, I also traced that footprint of the Stinger on the top of the cork.
Next, to trim away the excess cork and shape it into a hexagonal cliff, I used the razor saw. After this, I used an X-Acto and other tools to hollow out the space for the miniature to fit. This may take a couple tries to get it deep enough. It was very important to save the scraps from all of this scraping and trimming--I glued these on lower setions to give a stair-step appearnce. With more scrap cork and modeling sand, I filled in the cracks and created an interesting, mixed media look.
I filled in the space in the hex base with green stuff. Before it had time to set completely, I began pressing the cork into it to set.
Once the base was set, I used superglue to glue the base of the miniature in the setting I created for it. With greenstuff, I filled the area between the base and the cork then spread a thin layer over most of the top of the piece. To create an uneven, earth effect, I pressed and removed pieces of cork into this. Finally, I added a touch of superglue to the top, dusted it with modeling sand, and scrapped away the excess before it was completely dry.
'Mech Sized Camo Net
To create the camo net, I used regualr cotton gauze. It wasn't important that it was even or nice--in fact, I wanted the roughly woven style. I cut the gauze into square patches and strips to fit over the miniature. I know that it wouldnt be possible to get it to fit like a real ghillie suit, so my goal was to put it on in layers to create the effect of a ghillie suit. In a 1:1 mix of white glue and water, I soaked the gauze (yes, like mache). After a bit of a soak, I took the strips out and squeezed the excess mache out. Carefully, I wrapped and layered these on the model in key places--not too many to obscure the miniature's detail, but enough to give the feeling of camouflage netting. To give the look of a hood, I placed more layers on the back of the shoulders. This was left to dry for a couple of hours--a hair dryer may have been used to accelerate the process. |
Giving it Color
I began with a black primer to voer the entire piece. This is to give a primer and, if I miss little crevaces later, they'll remain shadowed. The next layer was dark brown over the entire miniature from base to camo net. For the miniature, the next layer was bleached bone, spreayed at a 45* angle. In some spots where it looked like a bit of a highlight was apropriate, I ignored the 45* rule and gave it a spray. The final layer was a thin spray of white at 0*. Again, if a spot needed a highlight, it was okay. |
It is important with every layer to make sure you leave a bit of the previous color layer visible in each subsequent layer to create a pleasing fade.
Details
For the metallics, I reprimed the spot with brushed on dark brown for a gritty look. On top of the laser, I drybrushed gun metal, highlighted with a drybrush of steel. For the joints and moving parts, I used steel. To finish off the metallics, I washed the laser with black and the joints with sepia.
The antenna is bronze becase it's bronze, that's why. It was an interesting compliment to the blue, so it gave the piece a bit of a pop--albeit not a field-approved pop.
To complete the cockpit, I experimented with a glowing color. This was achieved by washing and painting thin glazes of successive layers of yellow to white over a white brush primed screen.
For the base, I airbrushed successive layers of dark brown, deep red, and bright red. On top of that, I drybrushed an orange-tan color and a fine bit of bleached bone. The interesting gravel and outcropping, I made grey with layers of drybrushed dark grey, medium grey, and bleached bone. These touches of grey help to create an interesting and varied piece. A bit of static grass pulled it all together and justified the tan and green camo net.
As a final touch, I added a bit of dust to the knees, legs, and elbows to give the look that the machine had been in a prone position--fiting for the overall pose. This was done with a mixture of Tamiya weathering pigments, very drybrushed paint, and careful washes in areas that would collect rust (like around the knees).
Finished Piece
Introduction
Similar to Escalation Leagues, Fist Full of C-Bills is also a great opportunity to start building a new force or trying out new tactics and ’Mechs while creating exciting (and often humorous) backstories!
Rules
Common Pot
Players agree on a common vendor of mini acquisition. Some examples include: BV Traders, E-Bay lot purchases, and “On Sale” bins at the FLGS or online. In this campaign, players are attempting to emphasizing the ad hoc aspects by not purchasing the latest, newest, and beefiest pieces.
Know Your Limits
Players agree to a real-world dollar limit for the purchase of forces. It’s up to the players’ discretion whether or not to include shipping in this cap. A good range that allows for some diversity of units is between $25.00 and $35.00. Any funds remaining in the real-world pot after purchase may be converted to 1 point per $1, rounded as normal, to be applied to Special Pilot Abilities (SPAs) or Design Quirks (Alpha Strike Companion, p. 52 & p. 62).
Play as You Are
Players play the units as they arrive—paint schemes, missing and broken parts, and all! If parts are missing or damaged, it must be reflected on the record sheet. For example, if your Centurion is missing the autocannon arm, this unit’s card must reflect a “Weapon Hit” critical at the start of play and suffers any related penalties. Pieces damaged in this way do not gain extra points to be applied to other Design Quirks or Special Pilot Abilities. If playing it as such would render it “dead” in game terms, such as broken legs or torso-hip separation, it may be repaired.
These adjustment may require some creativity. For example, if your Atlas is missing an arm, treat it as having a -1 physical attack damage. If your Spider is missing an arm, however, you may have to consider another option. Refer to Alpha Strike Companion, for "Negative Design Quirks" (p. 63) for inspiration.
After the initial game, make repairs (both to models and to the units in game) as normal. If you really want to go for the all-out feel of this style of game, don't repair the model unti you can pay for repairs in-game as well.
Up to one unit per lance with a particularly interesting paint scheme may select the Distracting positive design quirk. This reflects the thrown together nature of machines and personalities in the guns for hire trade. If a unit takes this optional rule, it must retain this scheme for the duration of this campaign to retain the Distracting quirk.
Example Build
Chosing the Miniatures
Selecting Models
Lance Formation and Abilities
Because of the paint scheme on the Cobra, this piece received the Distracting SPA.
With the remaining point cashed in from coming in under budget, I wanted to give something to the Blitzkrieg. Not satisfied with the already significant speed advantage it carried, I chose to give it even more with the Speed Demon SPA. This overdrove the move from 14" to 16", making this certainly a unit to not ignore as it can skim around the edges of the board and pop-up in the rear arc of the opposition.
This unit is designed to work with the Cobra as the anchor, the Blitzkrieg as the hammer, and the Wolfhound and Enforcer as the anvil. Using movement, cover, and adaptive fluidity, this unit will do best in open spaces with obstuctions to dart behind, especially when the iniatiative falls in the opponent's hands. It will need to, idealy, operate at long and medium ranges with ample cover because of the relatively low TMM of three of the four 'Mechs. The Blood Stalker SPA, however, will help overcome this to an extend.
With the upcoming publication of Combat Manual: Lyran Commonwealth coming in 2017, I'll return to this post and run a Lyran special lance formations update!
Had I chosen the Commando, along with the other three found on the Mercenary faction list, I could have used the recently published Combat Manual: Mercenaries for formations.
As the Campaign Drags On
Bitz Box Salvage
Random pulls from bitz boxes to make repairs resulting in game-legal redesigns. For example, that Centurion that lost an AC arm? Replace it with a Shadow Hawk autocannon. In game terms, treat this as a repair that removes the Weapon Hit pre-existing damage.
New Colors
Putting a complete and painted unit of the board is one of the most satifsying parts of this--or any--table top game. If you can field a completed unit, your lance gains a benefit determined by you and your group. This may be bonus victory points or a +1 initiative bonus. This shouldn't be an advantage enough to unbalance the Alpha Strike system, but enough to encourage players to paint, model, and enjoy the hobby of Battletech Alpha Strike.
Have your own home brew or house rules to add to Fist Full of C-Bills? Post them below in the Comments!
Heretical Traitor!
I'm probably not suppossed to admit this.
I probably shouldn't be typing this.
But what I'm about to say will label me as a heretic and a traitor.
And I'm not the only one.
As much as we line up on opposite sides of the game room and leer at each other across tables while checking line of sight, Battletech Alpha Strike and Warhammer 40K players have a lot more in common than we may admit. Both groups share a passion for science fiction wargaming, an interest in painting and modeling armies of miniatures as a cash-vacuum hobby, and the gratification of playing these games with a community. What's more, even though we may not admit it, we share players, too. Many of the most reknowned painters and artists in the Battletech community have painted or still do modify, paint, and play Warhammer 40K. With the development of Alpha Strike, even more players can begin to reach out across multi-universe battlefields and join hands for what we all really enjoy--making "PEW! PEW!" noises as "little, plastic army men" fight each other with dice!
Ways of War
Instead, its a game of tactics and strategy, movement, attack, and defense. Careful thought and research goes into the construction of a force, designed to meet a certain play style, mission objective, or artistic aesthetic. Players take turns creating and adapting to ever-changing battlefield situations seeking to dominate the opposition. Dice rolls represent resolutions of actions with modifiers to factor in the increased or decreased likelihood these actions will succeed. Ultimately, one player will earn the greater victory points and control the field!
This description, however, applies to both games. The general structure and play of Alpha Strike and Warhammer 40K are very similar.
Warhammer 40K Turn Sequence
| Alpha Strike Turn Sequence
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The major differences are that in Alpha Strike are the roll of initiative and damage resolution. At the beginning of each turn, players roll for initiative instead of establishing a turn order at the start of the game. This does add a bit of time to play, but also allows for interesting and creative adaptions to the dynamics of play. To make up for this a bit, when units resolve damage, they only roll to hit. If a to hit roll is successful, then the targeted unit takes all of the appropriate damage. No to hit and to wound rolls.
Rules and Supplements
In addition to these, there is a wealth of Scenario Books and fiction to suplmement your play. If you'd like to build your own pilots and play them both inside and outside of a 'Mech, then check out the Battletech RPG.
The core Alpha Strike rule book is available in a simplified version for free!
Comparing Orks to Atlases
Space Marines = Clans (Warden Clans: Wolf, Ghost Bear, etc.) and Wolf's Dragoons
These are the no-nonsense, genetically modified, warrior societies. Bent on redeeming manking through superior breeding and firepower, the Warden Clans seek to restore the human race to a long lost golden era. The heroes of Mechwarrior 2 and Ghost Bear's Legacy, many recieved their firt introduction to Battletech through their initial experiences piloting Clan Wolf and Clan Ghost Bear 'Mechs.
Imperial Guard = Inner Sphere and Mercenary
Not as advanced, without the beefy men and machines of the Clans, the Great Houses of the Innersphere can hold their own against the onslaught of the Clans, Pirates, Word of Blake, and rival houses through their grit and tenacity. If you're familiar with Mechwarrior 2: Mercenaries, Mechwarrior 3, Mechwarrior 4, or Mechwarrior Online, then you've tested your mettle with, and against, the armies of the Inner Sphere.
Eldar and Tau = Comstar
If you like to play a faction with a mysterious past and endless supply of advanced technology, the Comstar is the faction for you. Highly secretive masters of LosTech, Comstar is a quasi-religious faction responsible for preserving what remains of man's advancements made before and lost in the fires of the Succession Wars.
On the outskirts of civilization, in the pleasure circuses of Circinus or lurking in the shadows of uncharted asteriod fields, Periphery and Pirate factions offer players a chance to create unique forces with scapped and cobbled-together aesthetics.
Chaos = Word of Blake and Clans (Crusader Clans: Jade Falcon, Smoke Jaguar, etc.)
Both the Word of Blake and the Crusader Clans represent the default "bad guys" of Alpha Strike. In the names of their leaders and long-deceassed heroes, these groups have attempted to force their views upon the rest of the Inner Sphere through violence. If you're looking for the facton that does whatever it takes to win, doesn't mind installing cybernetic implants to improve combat performance at a loss of self, and generally want to be "that guy," then you will fit right in with the Word of Blake and Crusader Clans.
"Aye Commissar!"
One of the most important differences between Alpha Strike and Warhammer 40K is Alpha Strike does not use WYSIWYG ("what you see is what you get"). In Alpha Strike, you are welcome to substitute miniatures and variants with other pieces--just exercise good sportsmanship and make sure your opponent is aware of the substitution from the start. Some of us have become accustomed to WYSIWYG, and have made great strides to create new, interesting, and dynamic Alpha Strike models.
Because of this design, it is possible to collect and paint a competitive and pleasing force for standard games in a relatively short period of time. What's more, using the Lance Packs and metal models from Iron Wind Metals, this means a player can purchase and field an average size force for less than $50.00!
Weapons On-Line//All Systems nominal
When you're ready to build your force, use the tools available on the Battletech MUL to research, compare, and build and print unit cards for free!
The Catalyst Game Labs Shop has all your Alpha Strike rules, compendiums, and Lance Pack needs!
If you're looking to add some heavy metal to your force, check out Iron Wind Metals for a full line of Alpha Strike miniatures.
Camospecs Online is full of great modifications and fantastic paint schemes of miniatures from all factions and periods of the game. It is under construction at this time, so some features may not be active.
BE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE HPG UPLINK (LINKS) PAGE FOR MORE GREAT RESOURCES!
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