Gamer BadgesWhile surfing the interwebs this past winter break, I found a post from a fellow ‘Mech-head about a great find from Gamer Badges. Embroidered on merit badge style patches, Gamer Badges has a number of patches to meet your tabletop, role playing, and card gaming needs. Badges can be ordered with sew on or glue on backing or a velcro back perfect for your velcro-styled game bags. Whether you are a completionist needing to unlock all of the achievements or a dedicated specialist looking to show you uniqueness, Gamer Badges has a patch for you. Earning Your Badges, Cadet!Each badge has a set of criteria to wear; most are easily attainable with simple “if you did X, you get the badge criteria” for fun. The Mecha badge is available to a player that has “played in a giant robot game.” With wording like that, players from Battletech and Alpha Strike to CAV or even 40K Titans all sound like good candidates for the Mecha badge. Unlike scouts programs, however, there is no lengthy application process to earn your badge. Your on your gamer’s honor. Optional RulesAs an extra little bit of fun, each badge comes with an optional rule for the bearer to use. From the set of badges I have, and previewing the others on the site, these bonuses are often minor alterations to the game. The Mecha bagde allows the owner to ignore “one critical limb failure.” With a little tweaking, this could manifest in Battletech or Alphastrike as, “ignore one critical hit,” “one arm blown off,” or similar event. Each badge special rule has a cool down time of one month. This addition is a great way to prevent badge spamming in your club. (*cough* Billy Caldwell *cough*) Of course, it’s always best to follow Rule #1, “Have fun,” above anything else. Make sure your group agrees to use badge rules for games before starting. If everyone is collecting and using Gamer Badges, its much easier to convince them to let you ignore that last critical hit. Looking for a Little Something Extra? Whether you thrown down with Duncan Fisher blaring, stack tiles in hexes, or shuffle cards across tables, Gamer Badges are a great way to add a little extra to your game night out bag. You can find more here. Hangar Crew
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Welcome to Throw Back Thursday where I examine things from painting days long past. This week, I'm spending some time musing about one of my favorite pieces--a Broadsword Legion Atlas and reflecting on how this miniature came to be. Sometimes, the plans we have for our lives aren't the paths we take. Painting the Bad Guys of the Battletech UniverseWade into any forum or stand at the side of a table for long enough and you'll find someone shouting "The Blakists only have all of man's best interests in mind," claims that "Katherine was the rightful heir and superior statesman!" or still think that the Smoke Jags were really only trying to reestablish the Star League to make everything better. It's easy enough to claim that roles of "good guy" and "bad guy" are all relative to which side of the map you're throwing dice from or based on what faction swag you're wearing. There are, however, woven carefully into the fiction clear "good guys" and "bad guys," beginning with Amaris and the fall of the Star League to the Combine and Confederation throughout much of the Succession Wars. There are even two entire era's of play that explicitly name the bad guys. Neither the "Clan Invasion" nor the "Word of Blake Jihad" give much room for explaining away who the villain is in this space opera we all love. But sometimes, it can be fun to paint and play the bad guys. Having a force of villains is just as much about--if not much more than--having an Op For to play. There is something liberating about playing the antagonist. Sometimes, it is the feeling of being the underdog and riles a fight in the spirit. Other times, it's the freedom that comes from being able to move and operate outside the constricting and contradictory conventions of "fair play" and "civilized war." Exactly like every kid loves Darth Vader, being the bad guy gives players a sense of freedom of self and domination over others. How did we get to that point, however? Like this Atlas, the stories aren't often quite as black and white as the print in our fiction. This Boradsword Legion piece actually began as an integral part of a DCMS mini-diorama. Initially built and assembled to serve The Dragon, this mini never received those colors. But, like they always do, things changed. As new minis came and went, it sat in a case, cleaned and assembled waiting to be put to the field. When the chance finally came, this Atlas took on the shiny metal of the Broadsword legion with ease. No longer did the stifling and constricting colors of DCMS regiments tell it what color to be, how to stand, what it could and couldn't have for nose art. It had all the space to display properly and proudly all the large sized insignia and art it could handle. No longer was it reaching down to help a fallen comrade--now, it towered above its victims with contempt-full eyes. It became an unstoppable wall of steel. Despite all of that, I still see what was planned for it once. I see what no one else would. In my head, I still see how the pieces fit together--the Atlas with his outstretched hand to save his fellow 'Mechwarrior. The steadfast resolve to hold the line for his lance mates still flashes, from time to time, as I remember what could have been but never was. And maybe that is another part of why we like to paint bad guys. Sometimes, we too feel misunderstood. We sympathize with their plight of lost potential. Maybe, if we play these pieces, we can help tell their side of the story and, in doing so, come to better understand ourselves. Or, maybe we just want to watch the world burn. Hangar Crew Supporters
Welcome to Force Building Friday where we look at building units for use in Classic Battletech and Alpha Strike! Today, we'll piece together a Horde Lance from the new Combat Manual: Kurita! Players Beware!!!THE DESIGN AND PLAY OF THIS UNIT MAY CAUSE CHALLENGES IN YOUR GROUP. REMEMBER, ABOVE ALL ELSE, RULE 1: HAVE FUN. IF PLAY OF THIS UNIT CREATES CONFLICT WITH RULE 1, CONSIDER A FORCE STRUCTURE REDESIGN. The Horde!One of the best things about the new Combat Manual series is the inclusion of faction-specific formations. In CM: Kurita, the Dragon brings some some impressive builds to the table that emphasize their faction-flavor including the melee-focused Berserker Lance, the uniform model Order Lance, and the uncountable Horde Lance. Based on the idea of Kurita forces swarming the enemy with innumerable light 'Mechs, the Horde Lance gives players the opportunity to field a small army of models in one lance and still be competitive. The Horde Lance allows a player to take in a single lance no fewer than five and no more than ten light 'mechs, none of which with a damage value greater than 2 at any range or from any special ability. Provided all of these requirements are met and the formation is legal, it benefits from the Swarm bonus ability. With Swarm, when the opposing player targets a unit in this formation, the controlling player may switch the target to any other unit in the formation that is a legal target, in line of sight, and at the same range or less from the attacker. Players should note that the unit only needs to be a legal target (within line of sight) and at the same range or less--it doesn't have to be a unit with the same or less to-hit number. As cool as the Swarm ability is, it is unreasonable to not expect to experience heavy casualties in this mode of play. To minimize this risk, it is important to treat the Horde Lance like any light lance. Players must make maximum use of movement, jump, cover, range, and rear attack to give the opponent the highest to-hit numbers possible while throwing down as much destruction as these little guys can each turn. Remember pilots, he can't hit what isn't there and it's a whole lot harder if what isn't there is still moving. Selecting the right combat command, one that grants bonuses of movement and attack, cause critical hits before armor is destroyed, and allow for greater movement will maximize the lethality and survivability of the Horde Lance. Raise Your ColorsAll of the favorite combat commands of the DCMS appear in CM: Kurita. Each unit brings with it Special Command Abilities (SCA) much like the special abilities attributed to commands in the old Field Manual: Draconis Combine. Many of the combat commands are light weight with SCAs well suited to strengthen the Horde Lance. A few commands to consider are: First Genyosha
Second Amphigean Light Assault Group
Second Night Stalkers
Building Your ForceIt is important to remember from the start that a Horde Lance only generates 4 FPs. Thus, if a player wishes to include duplicate models, they will only be allowed to spend 4 FPs to do so (unless the lance is part of the Genyosha or Amphigean Light Assault Group). When selecting units for the Horde Lance, players must remember the restrictions that:
Considering the likelihood of taking on much sturdier opposing forces with significantly more armor and structure, players want to select models that have considerable TMMs, preferably with jump, to compensate for their lack of armor and structure. If possible, take as many units with the ENE special to reduce the possibility of unfortunate ammo explosions. Some units of note from the Succession Wars appear in the gallery below! Notes from the Light 'Mech Pilot's HandbookMake every effort to flank the enemy and make shots to the rear for the +1 DAM (notice how there are no Sword of Light regiments). When an enemy targets a long distance sniper, like a Panther, switch the target to a closer-ranged, higher TMM piece like a Jenner. Arm your Horde Lance with HT generating weapons in order to slow down your opponent's advance. As much as the name seemingly implies, it cannot be played in a "fire and forget" sort of style. Playing the Horde Lance is a game of patience, maneuver and counter maneuver. When the initiative is on your side, take advantage of it to get into good firing positions. When you don't have the advantage, find cover or run (again, notice the lack of Sword of Light regiments). Patreon Hangar Crew
HAVE YOUR OWN HORDE LANCE OR SUGGESTIONS TO ADD TO THE LIGHT MECH PILOT'S HANDBOOK? ADD THEM IN THE COMMENTS BELOW!
Welcome to Force Building Friday where we look at building units for use in Classic Battletech and Alpha Strike! Today, we'll pencil together a DCMS Second Night Stalkers Probe Lance designed to maximize movement and reduce to hit numbers. From the Ground UpWhen I got hands on the recent Combat Manual: Kurita, I found page after page of Draconis goodness! This book combines (get it?!) fantastic familiar units with fast-paced new Special Command Abilities. Coupled with a wave of nostalgia brought on by amazing newseen art, I set out to design a lance of one of my favorite comabt command schemes: the Night Stalkers. Second Night StalkersOne of the most interesting Kurita schemes around, the Night Stalkers give artists the freedom to crack open more than jara of grey and red when painting DCMS units. The official description from Camospecs.com states: The Night Stalkers favor blacks, greys, and dark blues. Referencing examples from across the Camospecs book to FM: Draconis Combine and the new CM: Kurita, players will find examples ranging from a vintage 80's blue, black, and grey Shadow Hawk to a solemn 90's all black Atlas. More than the colors, the Second Night Stalkers offer some interesting play styles. Being a veteran unit, a Night Stalkers force can average a skill of 3 and take up to two Special Command Abilities (SCA). With the choices available, a player can choose to reduce penalties for fighting at night, reduce to-hit penalties, or build specialized aerospace support. Because they hail from the Combine, the Night Stalkers are also able to choose the Warrior Code SCA (CM: Kurita, 85). Selecting SCAs and Special Pilot Abilities (SPA) that reduce to hit numbers allows for the design on an especially agressive unit. Chosing to build a Probe Lance reinforces this approach. With 75% of Probe Lance units receiving the Blood Stalker SPA, three of the four pieces will have a -1 to hit target number if they attack a designated unit. The down side is, these units receive a +2 penalty for attacking another unit. (In the latest errata, this SPA applies not to a single opposing model, but the formation it is in!) This play style can be challenging with a light weight command. In 3039 terms, these units are often light on armor and structure and maybe moderate on speed. To help give these pieces as much survivability as possible, maneuverability and speed are key. Not only do these traits help to put pieces behind cover but also provide additional penalties to hit from TMMs and jump. With the Hit and Run SCA, Night Stalker units can impose a to hit penalty on the opponent when jumping without receiving the +1 to hit penatly themselves. Or, if the Night Stalker unit is moving, it receives a -1 to hit modifier. Yes, when moving, these units fire as if standing still. If environmental special rules are in play, selecting Environmental Specialization (Night) adds to the Night Stalker's defence. On its own, night time conditions enforce a +2 to hit modifier on all players. The Night Stalkers, however, only incur a +1 to hit penalty. The take away design philosophy is: reduce your to hit numbers with SCAs and SPAs while increasing your opponent's with range and movement modifiers. The ModelsWanting to keep the models fairly limited to plastics, I chose: PNT-9R Panther JR7-D Jenner JR7-F Jenner SHD-2K Shadow Hawk (3rd Edition plastic--it's still made from long-dead dinosaurs!) Chosing two different Jenners meant that this formation does not need to spend one Faction Point (FP) to pay for the duplicate model. What's more, the -7F has more armor and the ENE special, thereby saving it from dangerous ammunition explosions. If a more energy-based style is appealing, sub the -7D for a JVN-10F. This will, however, reduce the speed of the unit, effectively trading one marker of survivability for another. The Shadow Hawk's speed of 10"/6"j is a bit too slow for the standard Pursuit Lance--thus, the choice of a Probe Lance. Players shouldn't let this change lure them into forgetting that this lance plays on a razor thin margin of survival. It does, however, bring with it substantial armor and a long-range attack to support its smaller, faster lance mates. The final piece, the Panther, provides more Kurita flavor, maintains the jump, adds a long range punch. If so inclined, as in the example, players can maximize the reduced to hit approach by taking the named pilot Chu-I Akihiro Feenandez. With Chu-I Fernandez, players have access to the Combined Fire SCA. Under optimal circumstances, this unit will have: -1 to hit for Blood Stalker (three models) -1 to hit for Hit and Run (three models) -1 to hit for Combined Fire (four models) and Automatic critical hit check from Chu-I Feenandez In one turn, if everything hits where its aimed, this lance will do up 6/7/2, with the crit check or 7/8/3 without. Take the NightThis unit is super aggressive and pretty quick. It doesn't have a lot of protection on its own--so keep moving! A fun, alternative lance would be to use a command with the Flankers or Hidden Units ability. Have your own ideas or suggestions for Force Building Friday? Post it in the comments below! Hangar Crew Supporters
Welcome to Mod Monday! One of the best ways to make your force stand apart from the rank and file and attract new players to the table is with creative and unique game pieces. While Battletech and Alpha Strike aren't WYSIWYG (wee-see-wig, "What you see is what you get") like other games, modifications, reposes, and creative construction enhance the gaming experience. In Mod Mondays, we look at cool modifications and tutorials to build dynamic poses! This week, we'll look at prototypes of the upcoming Newseens releases! Nostalgia his hard in soft places. Of all the bits and pieces of Battletech history, none are quite as legendary as the tale of the Unseens. Suffice to say, for those who don't know, you can learn all you need to know about the Unseens by spending a few hours around a classic, Total Warfare-style game with the "Old Guys" who played "Back in the day..." (If you must, you can read a bit about Unseens at Sarna.net and the Battletech forums.) But what was seen cannot be unseen--at least, not forever. With the release of Alpha Strike, Catalyst Game Labs has torn the sheet off these venerable pieces and given them new life as the Classics--also known as the Newseens. While so much more can be said for these, lets just enjoy the warm fuzzies of nostalgia with this workbench photo. What is to come of these? First, [redacted]. Second, I plan on [redacted]. As for the [redacted], it will eventually be [redacted] into a [redacted] because who doesn't love [redacted]. Finally, [redacted]. For all players, new and old, the Unseens will continue to be the stuff of legend. Like a real-world Lostech Cache, the original models will continue to hold our collective nostalgia hostage. With the amazing work coming from the Newseens previewed in the Alpha Strike Combat Manuals, as well as the Primitives and Reseens, players will be able to have a small taste of the excitement of opening a new Marauder or Warhammer at their childhood friendly local game store. Hangar Crew Supporters
This is the second Battletech mini I painted sometime around freshman or sophmore year. My friends and I were in a Clan Invasion era Mechwarrior campaign. The command lance was an Atlas, a Zeus (I think?), a Grasshopper, and a Catapult. The Catapult was piloted by the legendary Bill Brasky! At the time, it was hard to get minis and the time and ride to get into Tulsa to buy minis. But I was able to latch onto this one. All the colors used here were from Wal-Mart and Hobby Lobby. I had long been a fan of the Northwind Highlanders--their scenario pack was one of the first books I ever purchased--and wanted to apply colors like that to it. I went with greens and browns, inspired by the recently released Clicktech. I don't recall what inspired the fade stripe, but it was really cool at the time! Flames are cool, so I worked those onto the missile boxes. The missiles are pins broken off of insignia. The scorch marks were stippled dry brush paint and the smoke is painted and shaped cotton. I noticed that I could make scratch marks by applying rough and uneven light pigment. I guess I've always used heavely weathered styles. The Mighty Mouse decal was long held over from my model kits. There was another number on it with the four, but it long ago rubbed off. At the time, I didn't know about removing mold lines quite so well; I make sure to teach this in detail now. The base is a mix of railroad ballast and painted table pepper. Thank you, long out of pring Battletech Miniature Rules! As fun as setting this campaign up was, this lance never took the field. High school and the challenges of growing up forced us to put it on hold. Maybe someday we can get back together and see this one out. Patreon Hanger Crew
Welcome to Mod Monday! One of the best ways to make your force stand apart from the rank and file and attract new players to the table is with creative and unique game pieces. While Battletech and Alpha Strike aren't WYSIWYG (wee-see-wig, "What you see is what you get") like other games, modifications, reposes, and creative construction enhance the gaming experience. In Mod Mondays, we look at cool modifications and tutorials to build dynamic poses! This week, we'll look a favorite option to allow your miniatures to fulfill a variety of model roles with magnets! The newseen Shadow Hawk is a great miniature with fantastic variants. Iron Wind Metals did fans a solid by releasing both a -2H and a -2K model. No more worries of "what model is that miniature?" But what if you want to field a -2H as a skirmisher today, a -2K sniper to smash some Feddies tomorrow, and a -3K to wipe out the Word of Blake on Wednesday? If you're a detail fanatic, you'd need one miniature for each model. Or, you can get by with one model an a few magnets! Parts List1x Shadow Hawk SHD-2K 1x Limited Edition Catapult HPPC or similar piece 1x Crab communications dish 1x Medium Laser-ish bit (this one was sawed off a Primitive Shadow Hawk) 1x SHD-2H Cannon and SRM2 1x Black Knight PPC (This was just because of the awesome look B1BFlyer did with his unseen SHD-2K) Basic AssemblyTo begin, construct the legs, torso, and arms of the -2K model. From there, drill a small hole in the forearm, the mounting hole in the torso for the cannon, and one on the left side of the cockpit. In each of these holes, glue a small magnet. Drill each hole deep enough so that a magnet will sit flush with the surface. Then, with a small dot of superglue, glue the magnets into each of the hard points. Note: Remember from science class how magnets have poles? This is important when aligning the magnets on the model with the accessories! SHD-2H ModelBuilding the -2H model is a relatively easy matter of drilling matching holes and inserting magnets. For this build, you will need to drill matching holes into the medium laser piece, the cannon, and the SRM2. For the medium laser, you may find yourself needing to add some greenstuff to fill the gaps between the forearm and the weapon. This is best done by flattening a small dot across the underside. It doesn't have to be pretty; it's okay if it goes over the edges a bit (this can be trimmed off after it hardens). Moisten it with water and press it against the arm where it will be mounted. Once set, remove it and let it cure overnight. After the greenstuff hardens, trim and file down the excess putty. Then, find the point to add the magnet (if the arm had the magnet in place already there should be an impression in the greenstuff) and drill a hole. When adding the cannon, remove the premolded pin. In that same spot, drill a hole for the magnet. Use this same technique for the SRM2. Bam! Done. To ensure that the magnets align properly, have the one you will glue into the accessory magnetize itself to the hard points' magnets first. Carefully remove the magnet with tweezers (being sure to remember which side is which), then glue this into the hole on the other piece. SHD-2K ModelThis modification is especially easy if using the -2K cannon included with the model. Use the same process as with the -2H. If, however, your build uses the Black Knight PPC a bit of work remains. First, trim and round the square mounting peg of the PPC. This can be done with a bit of careful X-Acto work and filing. To make the weapon more upright and less angled, build up the peg with enough greenstuff until it is flush with the flat edge of the PPC. Once cured, file and trim the excess greenstuff. Find the spot and drill a hole for the magnet. Using the previously described technique, glue it into the spot. SHD-3K ModelFor this build, use the medium laser from the -2H and you're already almost there. The HPPC from the Limited Edition Catapult requires a bit of work. On the one hand, there isn't a lot of drilling-simply glue an appropriately sized magnet in the hole. Fill in the other side with greenstuff and carve as you please. To add a bit more detail, use a dish or antenna array to represent the C3 slave. This can be a bit tricky, as it requires some very small, careful, and patient drilling. With this example from the Crab, the hole for the magnet would have destroyed a significant amount of material to make it flush with the base of the bit. So, leaving a bit exposed creates the illusion of a varied size piece-maybe with a rotating base. Magnet MadnessMagnets have a great deal of application, despite the extra work involved in adding them to your projects. If you're a die-hard WYSIWYG player or want to make your omnis truly omni magnets allow you to have a variety of parts for one chassis. They also allow for quick swaps, customization, and even a bit of cool in-game reposes if used on turrets and the like. Magnets do not, however, make for strong poses. One of the most frustrating things I found while working with these on this project is that the nature of the magnet makes the bit fit how it wants to-and that is not always how I wanted it. Regardless of how you come at it, magnetizing pieces is a cool effect and, more importantly, the skills required to do it are indispensable in a wide range of painting and modeling activities. Have your own magnet madness or Shadow Hawk builds? Post them in the comments! Hanger Crew Supporters
Welcome to Mod Monday! One of the best ways to make your force stand apart from the rank and file and attract new players to the table is with creative and unique game pieces. While Battletech and Alpha Strike aren't WYSIWYG (wee-see-wig, "What you see is what you get") like other games, modifications, reposes, and creative construction enhance the gaming experience. In Mod Mondays, we look at cool modifications and tutorials to build dynamic poses! This week, we'll look at an easy repose and modification to make the Jenner JR7-C. Although this tutorial uses a metal model, it is just as easy with the plastic models-maybe even easier! SuppliesJenner Model Hobby Saw or X-Acto Saw Greenstuff Sculpting Tool Files Pen Drill Antenna Wire (floral wire or toothbrush bristles) Making the JR7-C ModelThe major change from a JR7-D to a JR7-C is the same as many of the early C3 refits: the removal of a medium laser and the addition of a C3 slave. In this case, one of the left arm lasers is dropped. Pick a weapons port and apply a small bit of greenstuff. Squish it into the port. With a sculpting to or X-Acto knife, scrape away the excess. You may find it easier to do this with a blade dipped in water (this helps prevent the putty from stucking to it). Let it cure over night. Once set, gently file the spot until it is flush with the rest of the surface. To help emphasize the C3 computer, be sure to add an antenna. While there isn't a nice guide hole in the mini, the panel lines on the back of the cockpit make a T shape that works nicely. With an appropriately small drill bit, drill a small hole in the T lines. Glue in your choice antenna. Reposing the Jenner Bonus ModTo repose the Jenner takes a only a little bit of time but makes for a repose more inline with the model's stats. It is easier with the metal miniature becuase it allows for bending the piece in a few places. Start by removing one foot and the corresponsing leg from the base and the torso with a hobby saw or X-Acto saw. Cut slowly and carefully to preserve as much detail as possible; this will save you from having to resculpt details later. Remember, the thicker the cutting tool, the more material you will lose. To keep model proportions, this may require you to rebuild lost material with greenstuff. On this miniature, I had to resculpt the horizontal panels on the inside of the hip because the saw removed them. To make the foot appear as if kicking back in stride, remove a small triangle from above the heel. File down the excess material. Apply a small dot of glue and gently bend the foot into place. Wipe away the excess glue and file when dry. If you would like to add simple treads to the foot, scour and file a few lines across the bottom. To keep the weapons pods aligned forward, remove and reposition the one from the leg. Simply remove the pod as close to it as possible to leave the joint in tact. This js a good time to get at pesky, hard to reach mold lines. Once the weapons pod is removed, find the desired angle and reglue the leg. There is enough sueface area that pinning the joint isn't necessary. It doesn't hurt, however, to pin it in place. Find the desired angle of the weapons pod and reglue it. To give the piece a bit more of a running pose, gently bend the leg on the base at the ankle and the knee. This will distort the panel lines a bit. To clean up the curved lines, carefully reform them by scraping an X-Acto or files through them. In about an afternoon, you too can have an simple and awesome reposed Jenner. What's more, the fundamental skills used in this job apply to nearly all levels of reposing and modding. From files to saws and drill bits to greenstuff, developing and refining these techniques opens an infinite world of new and interesting models. Have your own Jenner modification? Tell us about it in the comments! Hanger Crew Supporters
A question plagues green and veteran players alike, "What do I transport my miniatures in?" Over the years I've seen armies and art transported in:
This last category can in itself be a challenge. "What style do I get? How big? What kind of foam? Hard case or soft shell?" And for Battletech and Alpha Strike, "Where do I keep my rule books and record sheets?" The search seems endless. I'm happy to report, however, that Battle Foam has stepped up to the challenge of providing quality, useful carrying equipment for miniatures, gaming supplies, and rules supplements with their diverse lines of products for nearly any system and scale you may collect and play, including cases and foam made for Battletech! With high recommendation from the admins of Battletech Megaton Painting Challenge I opted for the Iron Kingdoms Messenger Bag for a first foray into Battle Foam. Retailing for $49.99 from their website, this bag is comparable to other storage and transport solutions. Coming in at 17" x 14" x 5" this bag can haul quite a bit of gear ranging from rule books, supplements, record sheets, notebooks, or a laptop or tablet device with all of your PDFs! Fancy outside velcro to show your faction pride or favorite ride! Easily carried with a comfortable grip handle or shoulder strap, this unassuming bag blends in on the outside with any innocuous messenger bags. But that's where the similarities end. By day, its a mild mannered laptop bag. Once the clock clicks five and you hit the door, this covert "work laptop" secretly carries everything you need for a hard-fighting night at the game shop. The Battle Foam Iron Kingdoms Messenger Bag has so much storage you can carry your laptop and work assignments in one section and your gaming aids in another. Never be far from your hobbies with this bag. Unclip and open the flap to find pouches and storage galore! So much storage that I couldn't figure out what all to put into it for example photos. So many pouches. In this bag you can carry everything you need for a game of Battletech or Alpha Strike. From miniatures and dice, to rules and supplements, even to a bit of Battletech faction gear, this bag can do it all! The Battle Foam Iron Kingdoms Messenger Bag does away with the days of carrying your minis and rules into the game shop in two trips! The spacious main storage compartment is zipper closed to hold your copy of BattleMech Manual, Total Warfare, Alpha Strike, and easily still have room to fit at least one more supplement. If you're a PDF user instead, throw your laptop and charger or tablet in there and suit up to go. Need a place to stash your record sheets or keep your Total Warfare and Alpha Strike tables? The convenient pullout pocket has enough room to comfortably store a folder or two of these necessary game aids! Have that last minute campaign book, TRO, or other book to bring along? The second large zipper pouch has more room to carry around those dead trees! Though it won't carry every book you own, this bag will easily carry all the books you need for a night's gaming.
This bag far and away beat my expectations. The outside velcro for faction gear makes this bag a fun accessory to bring to the game and show your Kurita pride! For its slightly limited Battletech and Alpha Strike miniature storage, this messenger bag more than makes up for this with the ability to carry so much gear! Being able to comfortably carry all your movement dice, measuring tape, rules and supplements, map sheets, TROs, record sheets and unit cards makes this the perfect bag for most games of Battletech and Alpha Strike. HAVE YOU USED THE IRON KINGDOMS MESSENGER BAG OR ANOTHER BATTLE FOAM PRODUCT? DO YOU HAVE YOUR OWN PREFERRED BAG? TELL US ABOUT IT IN THE COMMENTS!
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