Pre-final Shadow Hawk. Most of the techniques used here are the same as on the Primitive Griffin. You'll notice the decals have been weathered with chipped paint an sepia wash as well.
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For this piece, I wanted a primitive -K mod. You may notice from the previous post that it still had the medium laser on the right arm--so that was amputated. The LRM-5 was added to the torso with careful drilling. To model the PPC, I carefully removed the muzzle break from a Black Knight (IWM 20-774).
From there, I airbrushed black primer followed by dark brown. On top of this, I added two layers of chipping and wear fluid. Like the Primitive Griffin, this piece will have a worn look.
Wanting to to make this an homage to the early days of Battletech, I decided on Night Stalker colors to match the Dougram Boxfacer colors.
The airbrush scheme was:
1) Black re-prime
2) Grey at 45*
3) White at 0*
4) Blue glaze
After this stage, I gently scrubbed away the layers with water and a toothbrush to reveal the brown under the chipping fluid.
With the chips made, I added a few red highlights and touched up a few grey and blue spots.
To add to the rust effect, I sponged burnt sienna and bright orange onto the exposed brown. The final step to the rust effect was to wash sepia and bright orange on the rust. To give it a faded, streaked look, I pulled the fluid down with a dry brush.
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Here is the finished GRF-1A Griffin. To enhance the primitive aspect, I posed it in a slightly bent forward and to the side, used extensive weathering with chipping fluid and sponge paint, and washed the decals with sepia. Inspired in part by the aesthetics in Fallout, I placed it on a cracked earth base to enhance the abandoned feel of it.
Here is where things are a little more complicated...
After sculpting the cracked earth on the base with green stuff, I mounted the piece and primed it black. Black is a good, safe airbrush primer to make great contrast with later colors. It does not, however, work so well for ultra-bright colors or if you intend to use preshading techniques.
Because I wanted a rusty and worn effect, I covered the primer with dark brown sprayed from all angles. On top of that, I used a medium burnt sienna color in splotches here and there that seemed like they would be the most worn and rusted. On top of that, and leaving some of the previous layer showing, I sprayed a bit of bright orange. Since this is rust, it doesn't need to be uniform or even--overspray and mistakes are okay.
Using the chipping effect (akin to the hairspray method), required me to seal the miniature with Matt varnish at the step. It's best to get a good deal and let it set over night before applying the chipping effect.
After setting aside for an evening, I applied chipping effect liberally to the miniature. The more you use--in several coats--the greater the chipping effect will be. Once it dries, the base coating began.
With an airbrush, contrast is key. The layering method was:
1) 1:1 dark brown:navy blue--sprayed from all angles and even coverage
2) 2:1 navy blue:medium grey--sprayed from 0* to about 45*
3) 2:1:1 navy blue:medium grey:bleached bone--sprayed from 0* to 45* or so, but leaving the other layer still visible
4) 2:1:2 navy blue:medium grey:bleached bone--sprayed from 0* to 30* or there about, with attention given to other areas that may have some highlight
5) 2:1:2:1 navy blue:medium grey:bleached bone:white--0* and highlights as necessary
Each time, I diluted the paints with twice as many drops of airbrush thinner.
After the last highlight, the chipping began! With warm water and a soft brush, I GENTLY scrubbed at the edges, knees, feet, and other areas that seems like they would be worn and rusted. Some of the underlying paint stripped off--though frustrating, this is okay. When I was satisfied with the results, I dried and resealed the mini.
To enhance the rust effect, I dipped a corner of a packing Sponge in dark brown, wiped off most of the pint, then stippled it onto the miniature. With an old brush, I stipples burnt sienna into the center of the larger scrapes. To create streak, I mixed sepia wash and orange together, stipples one to the piece in strategic locations where rusty water would collect, and before it dried, take a dry bush and streak it. It takes several layers to get a good effect.
The base was a similar method, but with desert sand tones.
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